Thursday, August 31, 2006

David Comes to Life


I came in on a Thursday. It was noon, and the hall was bustling with people.e They all stood, stared and wondered at the stone creation above them. I was just like the rest, gazing up with my mouth half open as I walked around its base.

I was just about to leave when it moved. It wobbled just the tiniest bit, then more, its chest moving up and down to the the rhythm of my breathing. I looked around to see if anyone noticed; nobody did. So I turned back to David.

Then, the unthinkable happened. He pulled his lips back the slightest bit and turned into a smile. His head tilted down, so that his disposition was now not one of thought, but of melancholy, as he looked down upon the people below. They were all staring up as if nothing had happened. Then he knealt down. He took one foot, then the other down off his pedestal, and stepped over the glass barrier seperating him with the rest of the world. Suddenly he picked me up in his cold, heavy arms. He took me up to his face so that I could smell his chilly breath, and whispered, "Little girl, why do these people stare at me so much?"

"Because you're perfect, and they are staring up at you in admiration." I repied.

"But if people admire me so much, why don't they think so much as I do? They spend their time talking, watching, feeling, but not thinking."

"I don't know" I replied, "maybe for people, thinking is too difficult, or too boring. Maybe they just forget."

"Interesting," replied David,"I'll have to think about that."

And with that he gentlhy put me own, climbed over the glass and up his pedestal, stood one foot straight, the other slightly bent, and sighed "It will be the end of us." He resumed his pose, and before I knew it, he was frozen in stone as before.

My group had left by now, so I hurried over to catch up.

Two Davids

Even though we'd seen another very special secret chapel with a grand painting of the procession of the three muses, the real highlight of the day for me was seeing Michaelangelo's David--twice.

The first time I saw the original David in a museum called The Academia. While we were in line, two street sellers got into an argument about who could put their wares where. The underground economy in Italy is incredibly vibrant, and its well-developed system could be seen in these turf wars.

After a relaxing lunch and my immigration class, everybody headed off to spend money in return for fancy Italian leather bags. Shopping for leather bags was the last thing I wanted to do. I really wanted to go to the Palazzo Michaelangelo, a plaza about 40 minutes from the hotel with a gorgeous view of Florence. But it was late, and I didn't know how to get the bus ticket I needed for the next day. So I followed the leather bag group.

Halfway to the leather bags though, I had a change of heart. I realized this was the only chance I'd ever have to see all of Florence at sunset, so I went for it. I had to get bus tickets for Siena first, however. I tried the first bus stop, but they directed me elsewhere until I was totally lost. So I asked somebody from the area for directions, and within 10 minutes had gotten my tickets and was ready for the plaza.


I walked for about 40 minutes before I reached the plaza. On my way, I'd met a guy named Andrei, a social worker who works with unemployed people. I also met two girls, Laura and Anna, both of which were students from Austria. The more I stood at the plazza, the more happy I was that I didn't go leather bag shopping. Those people were down on the ground spending their hard earned money. And here I was, on top of the world.


I had done it myself. I'd walked alone, found a bus ticket, met new people, and broke away from the group to do what I wanted to do. I went to sleep very proud of myself.

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Chinese Dante and a View

I don't think I remember this day very well...it was a week ago, and obviously there were very few experiences that had much impact on me. But, I have pictures. I guess this will be a story in pictures. I don't want to show them all, though. Just a few of them...ones that are either good or representative, I suppose.
That frightening figure up there is a statue of Dante. Dante is always portrayed as incredibly sullen He's always scowling, as if he is always mad at every person who dares look at him. We saw the tomb of Dante today in the Basilica de Santa Croce, which is basically a very beautiful cathedral. It doesn't really surprise me that Dante seems so frightening. Only he could come up with such terrifying tortures in his Inferno.

Above is a human statue getting ready for a day of standing in front of the Uffizi museum. The Uffizi was an incredible museum filled with a plethora of rennaisance art. One particular picture I remember vividly was Brunnelesci's "Birth of Venus." I was taken aback by the serene calmness of Venus's eyes. Her expression was one of complete passivity. Another very small painting (also by Brunelleschi) was of the rape of a woman. It was a tiny painting, not even 7 inches tall. But the woman's expression of anguish was so real, it was as if I could feel her pain. There were many others, but this is getting to be a long post.


I also went up to the top of the Duomo in Florence today. I walked up 463 steps in crammed quarters to see a view half obscured by scaffolding. It was still worth it, though. The view of Florence was amazing. It was unlike any other skyline I've seen: no tall buildings of glass. Rather, I saw an endless array of orange rooftops and terrace gardens, seperated by winding streets and the occasional cathedral or castle.

And then there was the Medici castle. I can't really describe the golden treasure room we got to visit, but suffice it to say it had an incredible history with tons of secret passages whose purpose was encoded in the paintings.

Oh, one last thing: Chinese food in Italy is overpriced, and not nearly as good as it is in America. I was quite dissapointed with the Chinese dinner we had. I definitely won't be eating Chinese any more in Italy.

Tuesday, August 29, 2006

Florence: First Impressions

Juggling in front of the Duomo in Florence. I'm the white figure in the center.

Florence is a very busy city. It's full of tourists, shops, restaraunts and markets. It's much more cramped than Rome; most of the tourist attractions are within a half hours walk of each other. The cramped environment makes our whirlwind days even faster, and leaves little time for just chillin. We see one monument after the other, and hardly have time to take in the beauty when we're swept off to see something else. It's very hectic.

The only thing I really like about Florence is the food. The food is amazing, if you're willing to pay the price. 6 or 7 euro is hard to pay for some noodles and a little meat, but the flavor is well worth it. But that's all I have to say about Florence for now.

Monday, August 28, 2006

Napolitan Pizza


The pizza in Naples is soft yet crispy, sweeth yet salty, and full of flavor. The best part is the crust. It tastes like pizza biancha: a soft bread with a crispy outing, and a sweet, buttery tang. I had pizza Quatro Gusti (four flavors) with mushrooms, ham, mozerella, and eggplant. In all but one, the dominant flavor was the tomato. In the mozerella, however, the salty taste of the rich mozerella stood out, quelled by the basil leaves on top. The pizza was big, maybe 8 inches in diameter, and I enjoyed every bite. The best part was that the whole pizza tasted antural. There was no suspicious grease or odd cheese; it was just good ingredients prepared with impeccable skill. I will never look at pizza the same ever again.

Napoli and Pompeii

Pompei from a wall.

I wrote this one a stone bench while waiting for my train home to Rome, so I apologize if it isn't up to par. My back is hunched over, my legs are aching, and my notepad bends away at every letter I write, supported only by my knee.

Anyway, I kind of want tot write an hourly account of my time in naples, because we did quite a bit.

4:30 am Wake up, get ready
5:15 am Meet Jenne at the portone, walk to Termini
5:30 am Jenne realizes she's forgotten her passport, heads back.
6:00 am Shannon and I arrive at Termini
6:30 am We find Jenne and board the train
9:00 am Arrive at Pompeii, and walk to the ruins (apparently we had arrived at the wrong station, which was about a 20 minute walk away). Meet a guy named Drew from Chicago (though he now studies Economics in California). This made the walk much easier to handle. We found Pompeii thanks to Jenne's handy GPS map.
9:30 am Reach Pompeii's ruins, and start walking around. Highlights included the arena, amphitheatre, houses, ancient snack bars, many atria, the forum, and dead people. Shannon and Jenne cooking at a snack bar in pompeii, as the Romans would.

One of the many atria we saw

12:30 Shannon and Jenne have lunch at the cafeteria there. I am too cheap to buy their unfairly overpriced food.Jenne and Shannon at the Forum


Mount Vesuvius looms over its prey.

1:00 Continue wandering around Naples, but with less gusto and more breaks, as we are quite tired.Me at the Forum

Juggling at the Forum


3:30 Board Circumvisuvia to Naples.
4:00 Arrive in Naples, go through the maze of metros to get to the hostel.
The colorful church and an apartment near our hostel

4:30 Arrive at hostel, drop stuff off and head out to walk around Naples.Some boats in Naples, with Mt. Vesuvius in the background.

8:00 Finish off our long walk in Naples with pizza from Pizza Gorizzio, a pizzeria that's been open since 1916.

9:00 Juggle for about a half hour, get ready for bed.
10:00 Collapse.

Saturday, August 26, 2006

The Shawl and the Market

The worst part of the day was waking up. The best part of the day was the market.

Fortuna (a Ghanese immigrant who came to talk to us yesterday) took us to the immigrant market today. I don't remember what it's called, but I do know that it's near Termini. But, the market's name wasn't that important. What was important was what was inside.

There were pigs, brains, curry powder, rice, soy sauce, candies, peppers, even toilet paper. The market reminded me of a big Uwajimaya.

We had gone to a church earlier in the day, where I was forced to wear a shabby piece of nylon to cover my shoulders, so I resolved to get a shawl at the market: I was a juggler, with a mission. I browsed the clothing section of the market until I found a cloth dealer with a beautiful print of fabric that I had to have. He wanted 3 euro for a half meter of fabric, but then I juggled for his son. He brought it down to 2.50.
But I didn't have a shawl yet. The cloth was frayed at both edges, where the cloth dealer had torn it off. The dealer had given me a stall number where I could find a tailor, and I set out. I found the tailor pretty soon, who wanted 6 euro to hem the cloth. I wanted 5. So, he agreed. My tailor.
He asked me to come back in 20 minutes. But, I needed to get back to the market in 8. So, he had me wait with him while he mended the cloth. I juggled for both of them, and even managed to speak some Italian. Both of the tailors there were from India, and both were very nice to me. The younger guy (about 20) invited me over for coffee, but unfortunately I couldn't go; I had to get back. I had four euro, and was getting my change bag out to pay for the fifth, but the tailor said it was okay; I could have it for four.

And thus, I made my first big purchase in a market: a beautiful shawl for 6.50 euro.

Daily Diary

So, todays post is on the Daily Diary for honors in rome, which can be viewed at
http://dailydiarys06.blogspot.com/
It's entitled "Beaches and Ghana"

Thursday, August 24, 2006

A Selfish Post

I apologize in advance for sounding too "I did this then that..." you know, what most blogs sound like. I'm sorry that I will sound too absorbed with myself. To be honest, I don't think there's anything wrong with that. Most people are thinking about themselves most of the time. It's only natural. After all, almost every person believes he or she is the most important in the world. But, that's irrelevant.

Anyway, today I had my presentation. You can read the text version below. The two presenters before me had good, long, and very hot presentations. This means that by the time my turn came around, the students were tired, anxious, and didn't want to pay attention. So, I tried to make it as interesting and short as possible. I'm not sure if it worked, but I hope it did.

Later in the day, I committed a truly selfish act: I went for a long walk, alone. Sometimes people need to be alone in order to minimize distraction. This lets people really focus on what it is they want to do. In my case, I wasn't really coming up with any new insights or ideas, but I did take a few cool photos:


Juggling at the Pantheon was also pretty cool. I had a big group with me, and managed to earn some money. Why is it "earning" and not "begging" for money? Well, according to the free dicitonary (can be found online), earning means " To gain especially for the performance of service, labor, or work". I would say that entertainment is a service. I mean, we pay like 10 dollars to go to a movie, right? I performed this service for people. I entertained them. It only seems fair that I should earn money from them. Some people believe jugglers shouldn't get money for juggling in the streets, because this is like begging. But not getting money for juggling is the same as not charging for plumbing repair, or for a meal at a restaraunt. Anyway, that's beside the point.

I guess that's all for now.

My Research Paper

In case you people were interested in learning about the Pantheon, here's a little essay I wrote about it. This essay is mandatory, and I am required to put it up. I apologize for the length.
Here it is:

“The Most Celebrated Edifice in the World”

A photo of the Pantheon at night.

The Roman Civilization has undoubtedly impacted how people experience their lives today. But nowhere is this impact stronger than in the buildings and art that we see. One particular building has had a profound influence on such monumental structures such as St. Peter’s building in Rome and the capitol building in America: the Pantheon. A monument in itself, the Pantheon is the best preserved of all ancient Roman structures. It is a cultural, architectural and engineering icon. So, why do people like the Pantheon so much? Because people’s tastes are so different, there cannot be one absolute explanation. But perhaps
understanding one possible purpose of the pantheon might enable us to discern some basic principles that drive the pantheon’s appeal. One purpose of the Pantheon is to represent authority. By demonstrating power, relating the Roman Empire to the heavens and combining both Greek and Roman architecture into one building, Hadrian built the Pantheon as a representation of Rome’s universal authority over the Roman Empire.

However, before I begin, I’d like to define what I’m arguing about. Many disagreements arise between two parties because they are using different definitions for their terms, and so before we begin I’d like to explain what I mean by “authority”. I define authority as the ability of someone to easily extract obedience from others based off of others’ belief that this person is for some reason allowed to command them. Hadrian would certainly need as much authority as possible in order to execute his orders with minimal resistance.

Photo of a bust of Hadrian

Now that we know what we’re arguing about, let us all play a quick game of catch-up as we review the Pantheon’s dramatic history. The emperor who first built the pantheon was actually Marcus Agrippa. Agrippa built the Pantheon in 25 BC., but after burning down, being restored, and again being struck down by lightning, the Pantheon could hardly be called a building when Hadrian came to power (DuTemple 9). Recognizing that this charred rubble might not reflect well on the glory of the Roman empire, Hadrian decided to redesign and rebuild the Pantheon from the foundation up. Nobody knows the details of who designed the Pantheon, or when
exactly building began, but it is generally agreed that the idea of the Pantheon was Hadrian’s, and that building started around 118 AD and ended around 128 AD (MacDonald 12)(DuTemple 24). Time passed, and eventually the Pantheon fell into disrepair along with the Roman Empire. The flooding of the Tiber river raised the ground around the pantheon, and the rain through the oculus combined with the soil that somehow was deposited in the dome nurtured a small forest within the pantheon’s heavenly confines (DuTemple 58). The Pantheon was finally saved when in the year 609 Emperor Phocas (the emperor of Byzantium) gave permission for Pope Boniface IV to consecrate the Pantheon as a church (MacDonald 14). This helped greatly to preserve the Pantheon until a few decades ago when it was restored to its current state. Thanks to looters and the Tiber’s regular flooding, the pantheon today is significantly less decorated and sits much lower than it did during Hadrian’s rule, but except for these minor differences, the Pantheon is essentially the same as it was almost 2000 years ago.

A marked floor plan of the Pantheon

The Pantheon itself is made up of three distinct sections: the porch, the domed rotunda, and the intermediate block which connects the two. The Pantheon was originally situated on top of a flight of steep stairs, which led to the front porch. This flight of stairs gave the ancient roman viewer quite an imposing impression of the Pantheon. The Pantheon’s front porch is similar to a traditional Roman temple borrowed from the Greek form. In front are eight gigantic marble monolithic columns which carry a triangular stone pediment. Behind the first row of columns are two additional rows of four columns each which form three aisles leading up to the temple front (MacDonald 28). The marble monoliths represent immense power because of their size, which only a very powerful and wealthy empire could afford to quarry, carve, and then roll on logs all the way from Egypt.

The Pantheon's porch, and Agrippa's inscription

The front of the stone pediment bears its founder’s signature: “M AGRIPPA LF COS TERTIUM FECIT (Marcus Agrippa, consul for the third time, built this)” (Macdonald 13). Why Hadrian chose Agrippa’s name instead of his own is a mystery. One scholar argues that “[Hadrian] wanted it understood as a restoration of Agrippa’s building is in keeping with his intention of vindicating the Imperial order” (McEwen 60). Because Marcus Agrippa was a close friend of Octavian Augustus, Rome’s first and greatest emperor, putting Agrippa’s name on the Pantheon connects the Pantheon to the Roman Emperor, and where he resided: Rome. This, combined with the Pantheon’s location (it is in the very center of Rome) made the Pantheon a building closely connected to the heart of the Roman Empire: Rome.

One other interesting fact about the Pantheon’s porch is that Hadrian made a special effort to turn the Pantheon’s porch around to make it face north, which in the Etruscan sky system is where Janus, the god of doorways, resides (McEwen 62). To ancient Romans, for whom the Etruscan sky system was quite important, this coincidental cardinality served to intimately connect the Pantheon with the sky and thus the gods.

Two of the best ways to demonstrate authority are to demonstrate power and a connection to the gods, because both imply control over others. Because the Pantheon’s porch demonstrates both of the above aspects and connects itself to Rome, the porch is a very strong demonstration of authority of Rome over the Empire.

But the most amazing part of the Pantheon is the domed rotunda that the porch leads into. From the outside, the rotunda is a cylindrical wall of brick with openings strewn here and there, and a bowl-shaped dome (MacDonald 33). A little more than half of the dome is made up of step-like circular rings, which was yet another engineering trick used in the Pantheon to support the massive dome. (MacDonald 33). At the very top of this dome is a giant hole called an oculus 30 feet in diameter which leads inside.

A painting of the Pantheon's dome (interior).

The dome’s modest bowl-shaped exterior completely belies the spherical dome inside. The rotunda itself is a behemoth of a structure “The rotunda of the Pantheon rests of a large circle of concrete There are, by calculation about 10,000 metric tons of it”(McEwen 63). These 10,000 metrics tons were needed simply as a foundation to hold up the building. The rotunda itself was 147 feet in diameter, and was as tall as it was wide. The large proportions of the building are yet another display of the Empire’s vast resources and power.

The pantheon's spherical dome with its square recesses (called coffers)

The spherical dome, tiled with small square recesses, is awe-inspiring. During Hadrian’s time, building such a perfectly shaped dome must have been an incredible challenge, and would only have been done for a very good reason. One possibility for making the dome spherical was to connect the Pantheon more closely with the heavens, which the Romans believed to be spherical at the time (DuTemple 6). Cassius Dio, a historian who lived about 100 years after Hadrian, says, “[the Pantheon’s] vaulted roof resembles the heavens” (McEwen 65). Some scholars have even gone as far as arguing that there are sixteen divisions in the Pantheon which correspond to the 16 parts of the Etruscan sky, which was the celestial world in which the gods resided (McEwen 61). The oculus in the very center of the dome is another costly design choice (it necessitated a drainage system for when it rained) which probably was meant to connect the Pantheon to the heavens. “The sun, said the ancients, is the eye of Zeus, and in Hadrian’s Pantheon the greatest of gods was epiphanized in light.” (MacDonald 91). Including the oculus brought the greatest of the gods down to earth in an almost tangible form. The Pantheon’s dome, like the porch, represents power and again links the Roman Empire to the omnipotent gods watching over. The size and spherical dome give such a strong impression that again the power and gods the dome represents make it a very strong symbol of authority.

A diagram of the Pantheon (side view) with the intermediate wall marked

The third and most intriguing portion of the Pantheon is the intermediate block which connects the porch to the Rotunda. It is a rectangular block with some stairs and two rooms. What is fascinating though, is what this connection of the porch and dome implies. By combining the more roman dome with the Greek temple entrance, Hadrian was blending the two greatest civilizations together to create the most symbolically powerful building in Rome. “Hadrian’s Pantheon stood at the center, the symbol above all others of that lost age when Mediterranean lands and Europe were united”(MacDonald 24). The Pantheon is a symbol for not one but two empires, and whenever people look at it now, or then, they relate the building to these Empires, and to the power and authority that goes with them.

Of course, the Pantheon wasn’t just a monument for ancient Romans to look at; it was actually used by both Hadrian and the public for many purposes. Ostensibly, the Pantheon is a Roman temple. In fact the etymology of the word ‘pantheon’ means ‘all gods’, and it was, as its name suggested, a temple for all the gods (DuTemple p9). However, “the Pantheon also served as one of the emperor’s official places of business. “Hadrian wanted to see the heavens and the Roman Empire represented in the same place” (DuTemple 6). The Pantheon was used (and some scholars even argue it was meant) as an audience hall, and “Cassius Dio tells us that Hadrian used to hold court [in the Pantheon]”(McEwen 57)(Leacroft 45). Today the Pantheon is still a Catholic church, holding services on Sundays and holidays, but most of the time it is filled with wide-eyed people of all religions, from all around the world. Even though the Pantheon was a temple, it was still very much a place for people. Not only did Hadrian hold court here, but Raphael, King Victor Emmanual II (the first king of Italy), and Umberto I were actually buried underneath the Pantheon (MacDonald 18). The Pantheon was a place for the people and for the gods, further connecting Rome with the gods. Once again, because the gods have control over the people, and the Rome is related to the gods, citizens would see in the pantheon a reminder that just like the gods, the empire is something that needs to be unequivocally obeyed. Even in its use the Pantheon represented (and still represents) authority.

However, Hadrian probably wouldn’t spend so much of Rome’s effort on a building that represented authority if he didn’t need it in the first place. But Hadrian did need a building which represented universal authority. Despite his genius, Hadrian was an unpopular emperor for several reasons. First, Hadrian did not want to continue expanding Rome as his predecessor Trajan had done. Hadrian ruled in the heyday of the Roman Empire, and “He had already made it clear that he favored a policy of ‘peace retrenchment and reform’”(Perowne 47). Hadrian built structures such as the Roman wall in England to mark off his borders and keep the barbaric Europeans from coming in. This was an incredibly unpopular decision because Romans didn’t see progress in an Empire that wasn’t expanding its borders. Also, some people doubted the legitimacy of Trajan’s adoption of Hadrian as emperor, and thought he was a fake. In fact, four senators even plotted to assassinate Hadrian. These popular senators were quickly put to death after news of the plot got to Hadrian, which created even more resentment for the emperor (DuTemple 14).

To maintain power, Hadrian needed a building to demonstrate that he was still incredibly powerful and should be obeyed. And since “the Roman Empire was at the height of its powers…A newly designed Pantheon, perfect in its construction and stunning in its beauty, could reflect the symmetry and power of the Roman Empire”(Dutemple 9).

One final motivation for building the Pantheon as a symbol for authority was that Hadrian needed to support his view of Rome as the supreme authority over the entire empire. “Hadrian was an innovator…he had conceived a new form of polity, namely the empire as a family of provinces, the happy the prosperous children of the mother City, and of himself as its lord, should be the spiritual bond of the empire” (Perowne 67). Furthermore, Hadrian believed that the provinces of Rome should all be equal, and should “all be bound to the emperor not as to a master by fear, but as to a father by love” (Perowne 54). The Pantheon, powerful yet divine, was the exact awe-inspiring structure Hadrian needed. When he came to power, “Hadrian…knew well that is his idea of empire was to prevail, it must be demonstrated on the spot” (Perowne 67). One of the first buildings Hadrian built was the Pantheon, and it very likely that he built it for the purpose of demonstrating his idea of Rome as the supreme authority.

A photo of Urban VIII's inscription

At the back of the Pantheon’s porch, just to the right of the great bronze doors is an inscription made in 1632, created by Urban VIII, which reads, “The Pantheon [is] the most celebrated edifice in the world” (MacDonald 94). This statement can be confirmed with a quick glance at the illustrations of any book on the history of architecture to see the countless domed rotundas with temple-front porches (MacDonald 94). “It is one of the few archetypal images in Western culture” (MacDonald 94). Why has it been so influential? Nobody knows for sure, but we do have a few hints. First, “the Pantheon motif can be seen wherever authority, ecclesiastical or political demand a recognizable, stately architectural imagery” (MacDonald 131). Second, that by connecting the Greek and Roman cultures, and Rome with the Gods, Hadrian built the Pantheon as a symbol of authority to support the autority of the Roman Empire. The Pantheon was built for the gods, but its real audience was the people. It was built as a symbol not of the glory of Rome, but of the Roman Empire’s authority. Perhaps this might explain why we use this temple-front dome so much.

Thomas Jefferson's Monticello. Can you see the resemblence?

Works Cited

Davies, Paul, David Hemsoll, and Mark Wilson Jones, “The Pantheon: Triumph of Rome or Triumph of Compromise”, Art History, v. 10, June, 1987.

DuTemple, Lesley. The Pantheon. Minneapolis: Lerner Publications Company, 2003.

Leacroft, Helen and Richard. The Buildings of Ancient Rome. Leicester: Brockhampton Press, 1969.

MacDonald, William. The Pantheon: Design, Meaning, and Progeny. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1967.

McEwen, Indra Kagis, "Hadrian's Rhetoric I: The Pantheon", RES, vol. 24, Autumn, 1993.

Perowne, Stuart. Hadrian. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1960.



Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Not in a Writing Mood


I am not really in a writing mood. I did way too much stuff today, and could tell you all about it, but it would probably sound no more interesting than a logbook. Which isn't very interesting. I do have a few pictures to share, however. The first is up top. It's siesta hour. From the hours of about 13:00-16:30 or so, most of Rome is shut down. Why? Because it's incredibly hot. I think some of my friends were feeling it. Anyway, siesta feels like that picture up top. There's nothing more to say.This picture is the first bust I've seen where a Roman's pupils are actually visible. Apparently, busts never had pupils because they were painted on. Once the paint chipped off, all that was left was a blank ball of emptiness. The Romans were not meant to look like lifeless angels. Their eyes were just painted on.
This photo is a tribute to my excellent roommates. Today Shannon made gnocchi, which is apparently a really delicious pasta made using potatoes. The good food, good atmosphere, and above all, good company will make this dinner stand out in my mind for years to come. It was the first time I really felt at home here. Eating at home is really the only way to go. You can eat out, but buying, making and eating your food feels so much more...you know.

I've babbled on for long enough. Too long. I should mention that I earned about 5.8 euro after juggling for 15 minutes today. And that's it.

Tuesday, August 22, 2006

My Dream, Fulfilled


Thanks to Carissa for taking the photo.

Poster Rome

(Top: Boring but necessary: my bed).

I registered. I moved in. I ate. I walked. I read. I went to an orientation. I walked. I juggled. I ate. I mingled. I read. That was my day. In between the walking and reading (which we did quite a bit of), a few things intruigued me about the day. One was bartering for salami with a friend of mine. The other was a conversation with a girl I had during the welcome dinner (the lasagna was the best I’ve ever had, and the pizza Bianca was superb. I could live off of that).

Bartering for salami was exciting. My friend and I decided we needed some groceries to make sandwiches tomorrow. When we were getting the salami, we didn’t quite understand what the man was saying. A few confused glances and a near deal-shutting misunderstanding later, I finally understood the guy wanted 9 euros for his salami. Yeah right. I was only prepared to pay 5. The barter wanted 9. So, I asked my friend for some coins. She quickly handed them to me, and I immediately started to juggle. Cinque! I said. Fine, otto, he replied, his face beaming with amusement. Tired of bartering in an unknown language, we decided to accept the offer. It was my first bartering experience. Although we probably still came out short, it was a fun way to use my juggling.

(Top: The view from one of the apartments. Seeing everybody's apartments was part of the massive amount of walking/orientation stuff that we did).


The other interesting part of my day you won’t find in the general honors blog of “what we did” was the talk I had with a lady named Lauren from another group staying with us in Rome. She posed an interesting question that made me think quite a bit: Represent how you feel about Rome in a poster. I’m not sure what I would do. As of now, I think what I’d make would be collage of numerous photos of shops, roads, and monuments, with a photocopy of one of those IS papers I have to read shining through. Why? Well, so far Rome is a confusing mess. I feel at home, but it is still very confusing to me. But I always keep thinking about my stupid IS reading, and that’s why there’s that paper shining through.

Tomorrow I hope to have the photo I’ve been dreaming of: me juggling 5 clubs in Rome.


Friday, August 18, 2006

Final Full Day in America

I'm very excited to go to Rome, and have been so busy getting ready (preparing my presentation, revising my essay, learning Italian and packing) that I haven't had time to write in my blog.

I have so many interesting stories to tell about the Pantheon, but they will wait until after I've done my presentation (in the unlikely event that someone from te program actually reads this blog, I don't want to spoil it for them).

I am excited to juggle in Rome, and have been working on tricks I might do there. I started working on 7 balls today, and got a 7 ball flash. Maybe I'll work on 7 balls in Rome. I can do 50 catches of 5 clubs without much of a problem, but I think 100 catches of 5 clubs in the campo might be a bit of a stretch. We'll see.

One thing I'm very worried about are the pickpockets in Rome. I think I've been reading way too much about them. Here are some of the ploys pickpockets use to take your valuables from you:
1. Pretend to help you wipe off a stain that they themselves put on you, and while you're busy steal your stuff.
2. Push you from behind while another guy comes up and snatches your valuables.
3. Steal your wallet underneath your eyes while you're distracted.
4. A kid will come up and hold a newspaper under your nose. While you're reading it, they'll steal your stuff.
5. Or, the kids might just surround you and star taking your stuff in front of your eyes. The best thing to do here is beat them off (as my friend Julia's Grandma did), or yell "via! via" or "Polizia!"
6. Throw/drop a baby (real or fake) at your feed. As you try drop your stuff to save the baby, the thief calmly walks up and steals it.

The baby one is my favorite. I can also imagine them throwing something like a snake at you. That would alarm you enough to drop that $700 camera of yours.

I also read about this Japanese guy who was getting his wallet stolen from his back pocket. A bunch of Italians were yelling at him, trying to tell him he was being robbed. But he thought they were just being freindly, and waved back as the theif walked away with the Japanese man's wallet.

Hopefully I won't be that ignorant.

Sunday, August 13, 2006

Palm Trees in the Pantheon

7 days until Rome.

So, how did palm trees get into the Pantheon? Well, okay they aren't there right now, but about 400 years ago the Pantheon was home to some shrubs, grass and maybe even a palm tree. What happened was, after the Roman Empire fell, nobody really cared much about Rome's great buildings unless there was anything to loot from them. Pretty soon the Pantheon's marble floor had cracked (or, perhaps dirt came in because of the markets that had grown around the pantheon's footsteps) and there was some soil, right below the pantheon's oculus. This patch of light was nicely watered by the Roman rains, and one of the marketpeople must have had some coconuts or something, because pretty soon the dirt and rains had nurtured a nice little palm tree into existence.

Unfortunately, this story ends sadly for the palm tree: it was brutally torn down after Emperor Constantine allowed this pope (Pope Boniface) to consecrate the Pantheon as a church. The palm was swept up in a cursory cleaning effort to make the now catholic church approachable.

Saturday, August 05, 2006

What I'm Bringing to Rome

Today I went for my first and (hopefully) only round of shopping for Rome. I've been gathering my stuff for Rome in a small cabinet, and decided to share it with the world. Here are some photos:
Juggling hat, and juggling club, and swimsuit.

Juggling ball, cotton coccoon socket adapter, and watch.
Guitar and sandals.

Also, Shannon was kind enough to reserve 6 people for the Hostel in Naples. I'm quite excited about going there.

Friday, August 04, 2006

Naples Revision

So after a bit of thought and discussion, Shannon and I decided we're probably not going to hit Capri, mostly because it will leave no time for Naples, and might be a bit hectic. So, the new plan will be to go to Pompeii early morning then head back whenever we feel like it (probably around 16:00), and then spend the evening wandering around Naples. That'll make our trip much cheaper, and quite a bit more enjoyable.

Some details about Pompeii:
Tickets are 11 euro
It would be a good idea to get a map, because it's easy to get lost there
It might be a good idea to bring food from Naples (as well as lots of water), as Pompeii's food isn't good and is quite expensive.

The place we'll be staying in Siena looks super nice as well, and I'm quite excited about that.

Shannon, Laura and I made Marcella chicken without the chicken today, as well as a custard-like dessert and garlic bread. Shannon's garlic bread was superb, and quite simple. You just had to toast bread, rub on half a clove of garlic, pour a bit of olive oil, and rub in some salt. It turned out wonderful.

A bit of dialogue:
Hadrian: Salve!
Me: Ciao.
Hadrian: Come sta?
Me: Ecciatato!

Naples Trip

So, I'm starting to get a more clear idea of what Naples will be like:
Take train on the 25th to Naples (about 15 euro)
Arrive around 16:00, and explore Naples (get pizza!).
Spend night in a hostel.
Wake up early next morning to catch early train to Pompeii.
Hang out in Pompeii first half of day.
Come back, and head over to Capri.
Hang out in Capri for latter half of day.
Come back late (no later than midnight!).
Crash in hostel.
Take an early morning train on the 28th back to Rome.

With all the food and transportation costs, I think this trip could easily cost about $250. This means quite a tight budget for the rest of the trip. Oh well, I hope to earn part of this back by juggling, and hope that the trip will be worth it.

It looks like I'll be heading up north to an agriturismo farm in Sienna after Florence with a big group from Rome. It should be awesome fun.